Lily of the valley

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is native to Europe, Asia, and North America. It grows in deciduous forests - predominantly in beech forests - and in meadows. This hardy, herby plant can also be found in mountains, at heights of up to 6233.6 feet, where it generally grows in large groups.

The perennial shrub originates from the Asparagaceae family and belongs to the Convallaria genus. The Latin genus name means “valley cauldron”, indicating the original source of the plant. The species name majalis relates to the flowering period which starts in May, around the same time as Mother’s day. Consequently, lily of the valley is a popular classic in Mother’s day bouquets. However, you should take care not to pick wild growing lilies of the valley outside of your own garden, as these are under natural protection.

Lily of the valley grows 5.91 to 9.84 inches tall. In the spring, lanceolate, long leaves sprout from the long-lasting rootstock that can be easily mistaken for wild garlic. An odor sample brings certainty: Wild garlic has a strong, garlic-like scent. The top and bottom sides of lily of the valley leaves both have a dark green color; the top side is noticeably shiny, the arch-shaped leaf veins in particular are immediately noticeable. The leaves grow merged together in pairs, there is a flower stem between them that bears five to 13 bell-shaped, white flowers from May to June. A particularly unusual and easy-care variety is the garden lily of the valley ‘Rosea’ that adds beautiful accents to the flower bed with its light-pink flowers.

Lily of the valley predominantly grows in deciduous forests in western and central Europe. In order to be able to grow well, the plant prefers a semi-shady to shady location as well as damp, warm, humus-rich soil. Humus can be worked into the garden bed in the form of compost soil. A soil containing loam and sand with an acidic pH value between 4.5 and 6 is ideal. Lily of the valley is also at home under the semi-shade of decorative bushes and trees, so there are lots of planting options.

Lilies of the valley are mainly used to underplant groups of bushes or trees in the garden. The small shrub provides a recurrent beautiful sight each year in amongst tulips and grape hyacinths. It is also well suited as a slender cut flower in bouquets as a Mother’s day gift or to decorate a vase. You must only take care that children and animals do not drink the water from the vase, as the poisonous plant substances transfer into the water after a period of time.

Lily of the valley is one of the less demanding plants, the only thing it cannot withstand is strong rays of sunshine. Young plants must be sufficiently watered to grow well. After lily of the valley has flowered, the inflorescences are removed; the dark green leaves remain in the summer and continue to have a decorative effect with their vibrant color. Lily of the valley should be mulched with a thick layer of leaf mulch or mature compost in the fall to keep the shrubs bushy, they do not require any additional fertilizer. If the plants spread too extensively with their rhizomes, you can reduce the growth area at any time with a spade.

Lilies of the valley are best propagated in June or July. During this period the roots lie flat on the soil and they can be loosened from the soil at the edges by hand. Then raise the plant with a shovel and dig it out. As lilies of the valley are very robust, it’s no big deal if a few roots are damaged in the process. Now the plant can either be potted or planted in another spot in the garden.

Alternatively, individual root pieces can be cut off, placed in soil about 3.94 inches deep, and the planting holes filled with compost. If you would like to see the first flowers in the winter, you can divide the rhizomes in the fall and leave them to pre-cultivate on the window ledge. Around six new plants will develop from a root ball of around 5.91 inches. After flowering the new lilies of the valley can be planted in their future location outdoors.

Some lilies of the valley are infested by the rust fungus Puccinia sessilis var. sessilis infested. As with most fungal diseases, this can only be successfully combatted in the initial stage. This is done by removing and destroying infested leaves and plant parts. Ideally, the affected plant material should be burned. If this is not possible, dispose of the plant material in the household garbage. Do not dispose of the material in the compost as this can lead to the fungus spreading further. Any garden equipment and tools used should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before the next use.

An infestation of gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) is less common. However, if the plants do become sick, the affected parts must be treated, as otherwise the plant will rot and the fungal spores could be transferred to other plants. A potassium-heavy fertilizer is good at preventing a possible infestation.